28.08.09: Visit to the Manor, a mega-urban city venture of Bitexco

For an introduction to these new urban development projects and particularly, a look at the Manor, visit: http://www.usm.my/ijaps/articles/1%20douglas(1-42)1.pdf

Taken from the Bitexco website:
"The Manor is the newest, most exclusive residential development in Hanoi.
It boasts of a medley of high-rise, mid-rise, and low-rise buildings, as well as attached and semi-detached villas.
But more than a luxurious home, this self-contained community has offices, restaurants, retail stores, cafes, and other world-class amenities, offering the residences a highly sophisticated lifestyle."

Some points of interest during our visit:

1. The exclusivity.
Each community plaza building had at least 10 police officers guarding it when we arrived. They stood at each entrance and denied us entry when we approached as a mob of tourist. I spoke in English, in an attempt to use my foreign-ness as authority. It failed. They said only residents were allowed in, and even friends of residents could not be permitted, unless granted permission. When asked where to get permission, the guard didn't say. We tried another entrance, and they shooed us out again. It seems we were too conspicuous and touristy, with our notepads and cameras.
As soon as we split up into smaller groups and were a bit more subtle, we easily walked into the community. It seems that they are acting for the best of the residents, keeping out possible trouble and disturbances. However, I believe it was a bit overdone, as we came with a resident and the resident could not even use her authority to gain us entrance. Also, a few police officers are all that is necessary to keep out community disturbances, such as street vendors and beggars. As it was, it seemed too exclusive, too private, no trace of ties to the rest of the city whatsoever.

2. The loneliness.
Once inside the residential property, I saw a total of 2 people, after seeing more than 5 officers. One man was leaning against the fence in front of his house on the sixth floor and a girl rode the elevator with us on the way down. None of them spoke a single word to any of us, or smile either. This was such a difference from what I've experienced in the streets and villages of Ha Noi. Everywhere else we go, the locals always spring upon us with guesses of our ethnicity, questions, jokes, and many times, advice for our wellbeing. Even the swimming pool and playground looked lonely. They were on the first floor, instead of the ground floor, so at ground level, the wouldn't be seen. What struck me as most uninviting was the playground. It consisted of three units of stationary play equipment on a trimmed lawn that if in America, I would guarantee was fake grass. Here, I've never seen fake lawns yet, but the effect was the same; it looked too clean and uncomfortable to welcome anyone. It stood completely without shade, open to roast anyone who dared to touch its metal poles and had nothing to really work one's hands around. There were no sandboxes, no cycles, no balls; there was only numerous slides and handlebars.

3. The international touch.
Singaporean Kindergarten, K-Mart, Vietnam Airlines, KFC and European furniture. Ornate Chinese carvings and a nude statue of acrobats. I was really surprised when they understood and spoke English. The shops all seem to be made to market to foreigners, even having exchange rates for American dollars, offering higher rates for exchanging larger amounts. I assume they want a foreign community, rejecting the Vietnamese peasant community of Ha Noi, even though they are rooted squarely in it. They did it very well too; the K-mart was entirely Korean goods, featuring legit Korean brands and foods. The Highlands Coffee was stuck up, having those fancy bill holders for every bill, not at all reminiscent of a cafe to hang out at. Get in, have a sip, pay, get out.

4. The complete detachment from the people of Ha Noi.
As with the shops that focused on foreigners, every building in the Manor seems to not be made for any typical Hanoian. The mall was full of expensive brands and products that are unaffordable luxury goods, as was the shops around the community. The guards that patrol the residential areas. The architecture that kept the Manor wrapped in itself and not open to the public roads. The mall was the most disappointing; it was very similar of an American mall, except without any trace of life.

The charm of a community is the interaction that it provides, offering communal locations to explore, spend time with friends, go people watching, meet someone new. In order for this to succeed, the two have to work together, the buildings and the people of the community. The Manor completely missed this point; it doesn't interact with the locals at all. Instead it is trying to bring about a new community, one of foreigners, investors, and the wealthy.

By separating itself from Ha Noi physically through architecture and urban organization, it is also separating the people inside from the locals. Hanoians and foreigners who stay within this community will not experience the rich culture that Ha Noi has everywhere else in the city and so, it is causing a loss of culture, legacy, and identity for the city.